Who cast that first fateful tomato that started the La Tomatina revolution? The reality is no one knows. Maybe it was an anti-Franco rebellion, or a carnival that got out of hand. According to the most popular version of the story, during the 1945 festival of Los Gigantes (a giant paper mâché puppet parade), locals were looking to stage a brawl to get some attention. They happened upon a vegetable cart nearby and started hurling ripe tomatoes. Innocent onlookers got involved until the scene escalated into a massive melee of flying fruit. The instigators had to repay the tomato vendors, but that didn't stop the recurrence of more tomato fights—and the birth of a new tradition.
Fearful of an unruly escalation, authorities enacted, relaxed, and then reinstated a series of bans in the 1950s. In 1951, locals who defied the law were imprisoned until public outcry called for their release. The most famous effrontery to the tomato bans happened in 1957 when proponents held a mock tomato funeral complete with a coffin and procession. After 1957, the local government decided to roll with the punches, set a few rules in place, and embraced the wacky tradition.
Though the tomatoes take center stage, a week of festivities lead up to the final showdown. It's a celebration of Buñol's patron saints, the Virgin Mary and St. Louis Bertrand, with street parades, music, and fireworks in joyous Spanish fashion. To build up your strength for the impending brawl, an epic paella is served on the eve of the battle, showcasing an iconic Valencian dish of rice, seafood, saffron, and olive oil.
Today, this unfettered festival has some measure of order. Organizers have gone so far as to cultivate a special variety of unpalatable tomatoes just for the annual event. Festivities kick off around 10 a.m. when participants race to grab a ham fixed atop a greasy pole. Onlookers hose the scramblers with water while singing and dancing in the streets. When the church bell strikes noon, trucks packed with tomatoes roll into town, while chants of "To-ma-te, to-ma-te!" reach a crescendo.
Then, with the firing of a water cannon, the main event begins. That's the green light for crushing and launching tomatoes in all-out attacks against fellow participants. Long distance tomato lobbers, point-blank assassins, and medium range hook shots. Whatever your technique, by the time it's over, you will look (and feel) quite different. Nearly an hour later, tomato-soaked bombers are left to play in a sea of squishy street salsa with little left resembling a tomato to be found. A second cannon shot signals the end of the battle. | Ko je bacio taj prvi sudbonosni paradajz, kojim je otpočela La Tomatina revolucija? Istina je da niko ne zna. Možda je to bio neki pobunjenik protiv Frankove vlasti, ili se neki karneval oteo kontroli. Po najpopularnijoj verziji priče, tokom festivala Los Gigantes (parada ogromnih kaširanih lutaka od papira) 1945. meštani su hteli da isceniraju tuču ne bi li privukli pažnju. Zadesili su se u blizini kolica sa povrćem i počeli su da bacaju zrele paradajze. Nevini posmatrači su se umešali dok scena nije eskalirala u sveopštu tuču letećim voćem. Predvodnici tuče su morali da nadoknade štetu prodavcima paradajza, ali to nije sprečilo ponavljanje novih tuča paradajzima – i rađanje nove tradicije. Prestrašena neobuzdanom eskalacijom vlast je mirno popustila, a onda 1950-ih nanovo donela niz zabrana. 1951. meštani koji su se protivili zakonu su zatvoreni sve dok nije došlo do javne pobune za njihovo puštanje na slobodu. Najsmeliji protest protiv zabrane tuče paradajzima se desio 1957. kada su zagovornici održali podrugljivu sahranu paradajza, kompletno sa kovčegom i procesijom. Posle 1957. vlada je odlučila da se pomiri sa situacijom, donela je nekoliko pravila i prihvatila blesavu tradiciju. Iako paradajzi imaju glavnu ulogu, sedmica svečanosti vodi do velikog finala. Radi se o proslavi bunjolskih svetaca zaštitnika, Device Marije i Sv. Luisa Bertranda, sa uličnim paradama, muzikom i vatrometima u stilu vesele Španije. Da bi se napunile baterije za predstojeću tuču, u noć bitke se služi neverovatna paelja, kultno valensijansko jelo od riže, morskih plodova, šafrana i maslinovog ulja. Danas ovaj razuzdani praznik ima neke mere reda. Organizatori su otišli tako daleko, da su počeli da uzgajaju specijalnu vrstu nejestivog paradajza samo za godišnji događaj. Svečanosti počinju oko 10 sati pre podne kada se učesnici trkaju da dohvate šunku postavljenu na vrh zamašćenog stuba. Posmtrači ometaju takmičare prskajući ih vodom, dok pevaju i plešu na ulici. Kada crkveno zvono najavi podne, kamioni natovareni paradajzom ulaze u grad, dok usklici „To-ma-te, to-ma-te“ dostižu krešendo. Zatim, paljbom iz vodenog topa počinje glavni događaj. To je zeleno svetlo za gnječenje i bacanje paradajza na sve strane ka drugim učesnicima. Dalekodometni bacač paradajza, ubica iz neposredne blizine ili horog srednjeg dometa. Koju god tehniku koristili, do kraja bitke ćete izgledati (i osećati se) prilično drugačije. Nakon otprilike sat vremena, bombarderi natopljeni paradajzom su ostavljeni da igraju u moru uličnog kašastog sosa, sa vrlo malo verovatnoće da će naći neki preostali paradajz. Drugi pucanj iz topa signalizuje kraj bitke. |