Who cast that first fateful tomato that started the La Tomatina revolution? The reality is no one knows. Maybe it was an anti-Franco rebellion, or a carnival that got out of hand. According to the most popular version of the story, during the 1945 festival of Los Gigantes (a giant paper mâché puppet parade), locals were looking to stage a brawl to get some attention. They happened upon a vegetable cart nearby and started hurling ripe tomatoes. Innocent onlookers got involved until the scene escalated into a massive melee of flying fruit. The instigators had to repay the tomato vendors, but that didn't stop the recurrence of more tomato fights—and the birth of a new tradition.
Fearful of an unruly escalation, authorities enacted, relaxed, and then reinstated a series of bans in the 1950s. In 1951, locals who defied the law were imprisoned until public outcry called for their release. The most famous effrontery to the tomato bans happened in 1957 when proponents held a mock tomato funeral complete with a coffin and procession. After 1957, the local government decided to roll with the punches, set a few rules in place, and embraced the wacky tradition.
Though the tomatoes take center stage, a week of festivities lead up to the final showdown. It's a celebration of Buñol's patron saints, the Virgin Mary and St. Louis Bertrand, with street parades, music, and fireworks in joyous Spanish fashion. To build up your strength for the impending brawl, an epic paella is served on the eve of the battle, showcasing an iconic Valencian dish of rice, seafood, saffron, and olive oil.
Today, this unfettered festival has some measure of order. Organizers have gone so far as to cultivate a special variety of unpalatable tomatoes just for the annual event. Festivities kick off around 10 a.m. when participants race to grab a ham fixed atop a greasy pole. Onlookers hose the scramblers with water while singing and dancing in the streets. When the church bell strikes noon, trucks packed with tomatoes roll into town, while chants of "To-ma-te, to-ma-te!" reach a crescendo.
Then, with the firing of a water cannon, the main event begins. That's the green light for crushing and launching tomatoes in all-out attacks against fellow participants. Long distance tomato lobbers, point-blank assassins, and medium range hook shots. Whatever your technique, by the time it's over, you will look (and feel) quite different. Nearly an hour later, tomato-soaked bombers are left to play in a sea of squishy street salsa with little left resembling a tomato to be found. A second cannon shot signals the end of the battle. | Tko je bacio prvu sudbonosnu rajčicu koja je pokrenula revoluciju poznatu kao La Tomatina? To zapravo nitko ne zna. Možda je to bio čin pobune protiv Franca ili karneval koji je izmaknuo kontroli. Prema najpopularnijoj verziji priče, tijekom festivala Los Gigantes 1945. godine (parada s divovskom fašničkom lutkom), neki mještani naumili su započeti kavgu ne bi li privukli pažnju. U blizini su pronašli kolica s povrćem i počeli bacati zrele rajčice. U tomu su im se pridružili i nevini promatrači sve dok cijela situacija nije prerasla u ogromnu bitku u kojoj su plodovi letjeli na sve strane. Izvorni kavgadžije morali su nadoknaditi štetu prodavačima rajčica, no to nije zaustavilo izbijanje novih borbi s rajčicama, a s time i nastanak nove tradicije. U strahu od javnih nemira, vlasti su donijele, ublažile, pa opet uvele niz zabrana u 1950.-ima. Godine 1951. prekršitelji su pritvoreni sve dok javnost nije zatražila njihovo puštanje na slobodu. Najpoznatiji primjer dišpeta prema tim zabranama zbio se 1957. kada su zagovornici bitke s rajčicama održali lažni sprovod za rajčicu zajedno s lijesom i povorkom. Nakon 1957. lokalna vlast priznala je poraz, uvela nekoliko pravila i prigrlila tu luckastu tradiciju. Iako su rajčice u središtu pažnje, konačnom obračunu prethodi cijeli tjedan svečanosti. To je proštenje Buñolovih svetaca zaštitnika, Djevice Marije i sv. Ludovika Bertranda, s uličnim paradama, glazbom i vatrometom u radosnoj španjolskoj maniri. Za prikupljanje snage za skorašnji okršaj, večer prije bitke poslužuje se orijaška paella, jelo od riže, morskih plodova, šafrana i maslinovog ulja po kojem je Valencia nadaleko poznata. Danas na ovom razuzdanom festivalu donekle vlada red. Organizatori su otišli toliko daleko da su uzgojili posebnu sortu nejestivih rajčica samo za taj godišnji događaj. Svečanosti počinju oko 10 sati ujutro kada sudionici jure da bi pokušali dograbiti šunku na vrhu namašćenog stupa. Promatrači ih zalijevaju vodom iz šmrka dok pjevaju i plešu ulicama. Na zvuk crkvenog zvona u podne, u grad počnu pristizati kamioni puni rajčica uz zaglušujuće uzvike „To-ma-te, to-ma-te!“. I tada, uz prvi mlaz iz vodenog topa, započne glavni dio svečanosti. To je zeleno svjetlo za gnječenje i bacanje rajčica u sveopćem boju između sudionika. Dalekometni snajperski pogoci, smečevi iz neposredne blizine i lobovi srednjeg domota – kojom god se tehnikom koristili, na kraju svega izgledat ćete (i osjećati se) znatno drukčije. Nakon skoro sat vremena, borci natopljeni rajčicom mogu se igrati u moru gnjecave ulične salse u kojoj nema više ničega što bi nalikovalo na rajčicu. Drugi mlaz vodenog topa označava kraj bitke. |